Feel the Love
Gulfport-Biloxi
By Sheree Bykofsky
A trip to the Mississippi Gulf Coast is
something of a busman's holiday to someone like me from Atlantic City. There
are about a dozen casino hotels with cocktail waitresses, nightclubs, shows,
and some of the finest “name” restaurants in the world such as Morton's and
Bubba Gump at the newly renovated Golden Nugget. Additionally, there is a long
stretch of beach and a lot of local color and attractions.
It is the nature of the local color and
the unique culinary scene that sets Biloxi apart. You can't go on a shrimping
boat in Las Vegas or Atlantic City, but you can in Biloxi. Let me take you
there.
A trip to
this region is quite bittersweet. It is
beautiful and heartwarming to see a region in an upswing: a classy new wine bar
opening in Gulfport, men perched on roofs hammering with pride, but everyone
has a devastating Katrina story to tell--whole communities flattened, people
clinging to trees. Their strength, passion, unity, determination and talent
infuses everything they do, but more than anything it is experienced in the
food they prepare and serve to you with love.
Gulfport and Biloxi are adjacent cities
that blend into one—except, I hear, during football season. The miles and miles
of beach are very scenic to drive by and walk on, but is not that appealing to
swim in. The swimmer's loss, however, is the gourmand's gain. The barrier
islands 12 miles off the coast keep the coastal waters muddy but make it an
optimal breeding ground for crab, shrimp and oysters. As Bob Mahoney, owner of
Mary Mahoney’s Old French House, will tell you, "There's a whole lot of
lovin' going on in the mud." There are a myriad of culinary experiences on
the Mississippi Gulf coast. From a humble po’ boy with a cup of gumbo to a fresh
hot beignet to an opulent steak and seafood dinner, you will find it here.
When traveling, people like to
experience local color and flavor. For
that reason, you must start your day at the Triplett-Day Drug Company, right on
the corner in the heart of Gulfport’s downtown. Picture yourself in a diner
with uneven seats tucked in the back of a novelty and drug store listening to
the latest gossip and eating hot and sugary beignets with chicory coffee. The
experience alone is worth the trip from anywhere.
Another choice for breakfast is McElroy’s
Harbor House seafood restaurant. It is very casual but overlooks the water with
a pretty view of Deer Island. You will love the beignets if you have not
sampled those at Triplett-Day, but there is no comparison to the shrimp and
grits for breakfast at McElroy's.
For a quirky
upscale dinner experience, try Mary Mahoney's. Now run by Mary Mahoney's son
Bob, it is an elegant establishment that has held to the finest culinary
standards for its 50 years as the grand dame of the community. You will
feel like you are in an opulent French manor house in Provence. Mary
Mahoney’s is known for its exceptional gumbo and stellar desserts. Apart from
the food, the establishment is dripping in history and decorated with
autographs, photos, and fascinating memorabilia. Many U.S. presidents and even more celebrities
have dined there such is Paul Newman, Denzel Washington, Dick Clark, Diana
Ross, Anderson Cooper, and most notably John Grisham, who called it his
"favorite restaurant in the whole wide world.” Grisham even made Bob a
character in more than one of his novels.
There are several towns very close to Gulfport and Biloxi that one should
not miss seeing when in the region. Ocean springs is perhaps the most quaint and
charming village on the Gulf Coast and has the power to put you in a quiet
state of mind almost instantly. As soon as you get over the bridge from Biloxi
to Ocean Springs, make two quick rights to see the lovely mosaic right beside
the bridge. After that, as you head to the downtown, you will pass many quaint homes half hidden by a nice canopy
of old oak and Magnolia trees.
This is a Mayberry community. There are no casinos. Many artists make their home in Ocean
Springs, and The WAMA museum, dedicated to Walter Anderson is a must-stop.
Especially notable is the fresco that Anderson painted to decorate the town’s
community center, which is now valued at 36 million and was thankfully
undamaged in Katrina.
Small as it is, there are 112 restaurants to choose from in Ocean
Springs. My favorite is Frenchie’s Bistro and Wine Bar. I didn’t know I liked
gumbo until I tried it there. Cajun
sausage makes it spicy, and it is served with a beautiful fried shrimp on top.
The coffee-rubbed brisket po’ boy is another house specialty at this romantic
yet casual Ocean Springs gem. Most important, if you see the giant plump and
sweet Ponchatoula fried strawberries on the menu and don’t order them, then you
just don’t like food.
For out of this world authentic local BBQ in a riotously happy and quirky
atmosphere, set yourself down for some good eatin’ at the Shed Barbeque
and Blues Joint. Waterside and aptly named, the restaurant is a long semi-outdoor
property with picnic tables, gravel floors, license plates decorating the
walled sides, and dollar bills stuck to the ceiling with black plastic
forks. While chowing down, expect to be
entertained with blues performed live by carefully selected talented musicians.
You can paddle up the bayou and dock right there at the Shed or arrive by car.
Either way, Gus, affectionately known as the Shed Pimp, will welcome you
wearing a three-piece suit with a fancy tie tack, and he will hug you and make
you feel like one of the family. For all the atmosphere, the food is the best
part. I didn't pick the best week to give up pork, but, forgive me Mom, the BBQ
brisket was the best I ever had.
A great thing to do when you are in Ocean Springs is to attend a cooking
class at the Mary C Cultural Center of Arts & Education, located in the
historic Ocean Springs Public School Building on Government Street. Enjoy the
experience of cutting and chopping the local delicacies and then sampling your
own creations.
Another local town that you won’t want to miss on your culinary tour is
Bay St. Louis. Looking at the pictures of utter devastation following Katrina,
it is hard to believe how much passion and love went into re-creating the community
that “Coastal Living” magazine understandably named one of the Top Ten Beach
Communities in 2010. Enjoy your midday
meal of grilled chicken salad and surprisingly refreshing jalapeño lemonade at
Lulu’s What’s for Lunch on Main Street or pick up a fresh-made scone at Serious
Bread. After a day of shopping in the tempting boutiques and gawking at the
costumes in the Mardi Gras museum, eventually you will be hungry again. Join the elegant red hat ladies for a meal at
200 North Beach Restaurant on the beach in old town. Chef Mark takes great
pride in his reasonably-priced gourmet gulf offerings—from his char-grilled
oysters to his blackened redfish served over Andouille hash and crawfish
etoufee. Did you save room for the pecan
pie with chocolate caramel and whipped cream? You should have!
In the depot district of Bay St. Louis, you may want to sample alligator
bites or Big Bay Boudin at Mindy's Café in an atmosphere reminiscent of a
Tennessee Williams play.
Exit Interstate 10 at lucky 13, Kiln, and take a tour of the Lazy
Magnolia brewery, where I recommend you try the Pecan Nut Brown Ale and take
home a souvenir glass. Don’t worry. You
won’t be far from great gumbo and po’ boys. Dempsey’s Seafood & Steak
boasts homey food in an equally homey environment.
Where to Stay?
There are about a dozen casino hotels, but when I go back, I will plan to
stay at the opulent Beau Rivage, which is decorated like the Bellagio in Las
Vegas and the Borgata in Atlantic City.
I can also attest to the comfort and beauty of the newly renovated
Golden Nugget as it is almost a duplicate of the spectacular Landry renovation
in Atlantic City. The IP is a fine
choice if the price is more reasonable, and you can’t go wrong at the Hard Rock
Hotel. The IP, by the way, has a first class steak house named Thirty-Two on
the 32nd floor with views that are unsurpassed.
I have been to Mississippi as I've been to all 50 states, but I was only
in Tunica for poker tournaments. Now I can say I have really been to
Mississippi. And I can’t wait to go back.
For More Information:
Hotels:
Dining:
Dempsey’s, 6208 Kiln-Denise R., Kiln 228 255 2043
Frenchie’s, 1601 Government St., Ocean Springs 228
818 2772
Lulu’s What’s for Lunch, 126 Main Street, Bay St.
Louis 228 463 1670
McElroy’s, 695 Beach Blvd., Biloxi 228 435 5001
Mindy’s Café, 126 Blaize Ave., Bay St. Louis 228 344
3122
Mortons.com/biloxi
Triplett-Day Drug Company, 2429 14th
Street, Gulfport 228 863 2363
Attractions:
Mardi Gras Museum, 1928 Depot Way, Bay St. Louis, MS
39520, 228 463 9222
Source: Sheree Bykofsky
